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Docked at Marina Quay West, Toronto |
I am currently writing this post docked safely at Marina
Quay West in downtown Toronto with a looming CN tower off our bow. It feels
great to finally arrive here as it was a trip we wanted to do to test out the
boat, and consequently was a test for us.
We had few days of slow cruising with some great sailing
from Gananoque to Kingston to Bath to Waupoos. It was a great pace and we did
some definite learning on how the boat works, how she handles and what works
for us. I had been checking the weather forecasts regularly and saw we had some
nice weather coming up with winds in a somewhat favourable direction.
Sal reading |
We headed
out of our protected anchorage in Waupoos at around 6:30 in the morning on
Wednesday, September 3rd, 2014. Winds were light but expected to be
from the west changing to the southwest early in the morning. We knew we would
have to do a few tacks but once the wind swung around to the south it would be
an easy reach from there. That was the theory. We set our Cape Horn self-steering
(which ended up being named Gilles) and headed as close to the wind as we
could. It was all going well, the boat was moving well through the water and
waves and averaging about 4.5-5 knots. Unfortunately when we were doing our
navigation checks on the chart the sinking feeling that we weren’t making any
westward progress hit, and in fact it looked like we were actually going
backwards! Our GPS kept telling us we had 111 nautical miles to go, for about 4
hours. We did make some good southward direction and would use that to our
advantage on the next tack. The waves had built to around 3 feet and we adjusted
the wind vane to tack. Unfortunately it didn’t last long before the rudder
kicked up sideways and the boat fell away from the wind. It was too rough to
try to adjust the rudder of the wind vane as it’s very difficult to do when the
boat sailing, not to mention in the waves, so we hand steered for the next few
hours.
We made significantly better mileage in the right direction
on the next tack and were able to get the wind vane going again, as the waves
had calmed. I headed into the wind as Sal leaned over the back of the boat and
turned the rudder so it was back in the water. Once set we had no further
issues during the day. The wind had finally come around to the south by
evening. In fact, it was the best sailing of our trip. We were finally making
good progress, in the right direction and very comfortable. I was even able to
cook dinner in relative comfort, as the boat wasn’t heeled over significantly.
We enjoyed a beautiful evening, and were literally sailing into a gorgeous
sunset. The wind died slightly but after Sal went down to sleep, (I was taking
first watch from 8pm-1am) it picked up and had a steady 8 knot wind from the
south for almost my entire watch. There were only a few lights spotted 15 miles
away along shore and a bright, half moon lighting the way. It was very
peaceful. I only saw 2 freighters pass by in the distance. I alternated reading
with stargazing, and overall would rate my watch as rather boring. At about
1230 the wind vane rudder kicked up again, so I got Sal up and we set it again.
He took over his watch a little early as I went below to sleep. He didn’t have
quite the greatest winds and it completely died around 5am, leaving us rolling
around uncomfortably in the remaining swell. We decided to motor for a bit
until we found wind, which we did a couple hours later. The boat coasted along
in very light winds and we had breakfast together at around 10ish. We were left
in completely windless conditions around noon. We took turns swimming off the
boat to cool down as it we very hot in the sun. We motored again for an hour
and then found the lightest of winds, which we took advantage of. The wind was
picking up by late afternoon, and again we were moving along great. The miles
were really ticking by having reached our halfway point by Thursday afternoon.
At around 6pm we first spotted the skyline of Toronto! I started my watch
before sundown, but had Sal take down the staysail before he went to try to get
some sleep, as the wind seemed to be strengthening. A couple hours after sunset
we were really having a wild ride and Gilles failed (always at the most
inconvenient times!) so I had to hand-steer. Sal came up and we reefed the
mainsail. The wind was really whipping up but the boat was sailing comfortably
(I on the other hand was slightly terrified). Some waves were breaking around
us but Nymeria was taking them in stride. Then, all of the sudden, nothing, the
wind abruptly died, leaving us rolling around in the large swell. The very,
very light wind had shifted around but we were having a difficult time moving
forward directly into waves with such minimal wind. All this time we had a
great view of Toronto, so close, yet so far away. Exhausted and frustrated, we
started up the motor and made our way through the waves.
Sailing into the sunset |
We had a few contingency plans but decided since it was
about 3am and we wanted to get some sleep, we would dock at the fuel dock at
Ontario place which had a seemingly easy entrance and we wouldn’t have to enter
Toronto harbour in the dark. We lowered the sails and guided by the buoys and
our GPS slowly worked our way close to shore. I can’t describe how nervous I
was as we approached the entrance and the shore and the breakwater, but we
slowly entered the breakwater and emerged into the harbour. It was slightly lit
but still difficult to see, luckily the gas dock was illuminated and we pulled
alongside. We tied up and I can say that my legs were weak and wobbly as we
secured the boat, from a combination of nerves and relief. We went below and
got into bed. Unfortunately the swell made its way inside the breakwater so we
were rolling a little but, exhausted, we both fell immediately asleep.
No one was around in the morning so we left early and made
our way to Marina Quay West, which was not only closer to the downtown, but it
was significantly calmer. We tied up, checked in and found a pizza joint. Ate,
and had the best nap ever!